Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale jobs, but the option is down to individual choice.
Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories including drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.
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Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the process again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Starting to Saw:.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate outcome every time.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.